home receiver and passive speaks compatibility ?

Question

I am confused about the Watts rating on receiver and passive speakers in general, 
base on my google search is the receiver power should not be more than the speakers, but in my case I am not only on the safe side I am way off inters of the watts rates, so for example I bough the flowing equipment, 
for the receiver I bought is the "AVR-S750H 7.2-Ch x 75 Watts A/V Receiver w/HEOS" if that will help, so when it says is the 75W is that for per channel or the whole system?not to mention I bought Klipsch R-610F Floor standing (deliver up to 340 watts of power)Klipsch R-41M Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) (POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 50W/200W)Klipsch Reference R-10SW 10" 300W Powered SubwooferKlipsch Klipsch Reference R-52C Two-Way Center Channel Speaker (with 400 Watts Peak Power)now each one of there passive speaker comes with difference Watts ratting as you can see from each spec line, now looks like the speaker them self are way more power demand and capable than this receiver "VR-S750H 7.2-Ch" now I know a lot of you going to say it's safe to go for it, but what about the performance, since the receiver is not going to provide enough watts is that mean my sound will be lower or distorted, and the problem even the other high end receiver that cost 1000$+ can't provide more than 140W !!!so what is the catch over here? on the other side what is the meaning of the cont/peak on the spec from the flowing line out of one of my speakers"Klipsch R-41M (POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 50W/200W)"

Answer 1

The 75 watts for the AV receiver is continuous and for one channel...peak power is pretty much meaningless any more...At one time in car stereo units peak power was the max power for 1 second at less than 10% distortion; but companies started using a voltage measurement instead of watts and then converting the volts to watts without consideration of distortion levels and so for various reasons it became meaningless ...The only power rating that can be compared from one company to the next is an RMS rating from 20hz to 20khz at less than .09% distortion...anything else is pretty meaningless or only has meaning to company insiders, no one else...Also the RMS rating is only one channel playing when your using all 7 channels the power output will be less unless its a very hi end amplifier Most of the time for speaker companies they are listing a nominal amp rating so 50 watts is the recommended amplifier power but its nominal meaning that there is some wiggle room and also not every amp manufacture gives you a true RMS rating...Some manufactures over rate their amps while others underrate ....Yamaha; Sony tends to over rate their amps..NAD tends to under rate their amps Denon is somewhere in the middle and so for their better amps (In Command) they are rated rather conservative while their cheaper amps are over rated to compete with the other companies doing the same...Its become a very complicated situation really and there are no easy answers...

Answer 2

The makers specifications for the amp are very spotty, but do say it can deliver 75W x2, so 75W RMS continuous to each of the main stereo channels.



It appears to be limited to 140W total over however many channels are in use. Most of the power will generally be needed by the front speakers anyway, so that's not too bad.



Re. the speakers, the lower of the two rating is the continuous RMS rating, the other is the advertising fiction "peak" rating.



You main speakers are rated 95W continuous each, so a reasonable match to the amp.



The sub has its own internal amp matched to the drive units and all the surround speakers are generally reasonable, though the centre would have been OK with a lower rating.



It should all work fine.

Answer 3

Don't worry about it so much. 

Speakers and amplifiers Do Not have to be perfectly matched. 

               

Most speakers can be used with most amplifiers 

without there being any chance of trouble.              



Only "RMS", "continuous", or "program" power ratings are useful.   

Those three don't all mean exactly the same thing, 

but you can safely pretend that they do.   

Ignore all others.     

            

Always look at the "per channel" numbers 

rather than the total output rating.    

            

An ideal match is a speaker and an amplifier 

both rated for the same number of watts RMS, 

but, again, it is Not necessary for them to be so close.  

             

If it Sounds good, it IS good, as sensible audio people sometimes say.